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PRO

Pointing

Dear Members,

I have been trading for over 11 years and have worked in the industry for other landscaping companies prior to this and still haven't found a pointing method or mix that I am completely happy with. At the moment, for use with Indian sandstone, we are using a mix of 2 parts soft sand, 2 parts sharp sand and one part enhanced Portland cement. We mix it dry and then add as much water as we can get away with before it becomes difficult to deal with in terms of staining slabs. We are applying it with trowels and plasterers small tools, compacting and striking it flat a couple of mm below the slab surface. We try and point the same day as we lay the paving or the next day at the latest as the weather allows. We cover the finished area if rain is forecast for a couple of days. It always looks great when its done.

I think I have tried every other method including various jointing compounds and pre mixed mortars, different ratios and types of sand and cement with or without dye and add mixes. We have applied using pointing guns and different types of trowels and brushes and we have experimented with the amount of moisture.

Can anyone let me know their preferred and trusted method of pointing?

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Replies

  • Hi Paul,

    Here's my tuppence worth:

    We moved to using Marshall's weather point(other manufacturers are available)around 18 months ago.Prior to that we used to 'butter' the joints as we laid the slabs,found this to be much quicker and also less likely to crack as it is part of the same mass of mortar as the bed.However the weather was always the issue for me with mortar pointing,throw up some canopies and you can do most things but depending on the run pointing was always a problem.

    Like yourself We tried different methods over the years and didn't find anything that was a better finish,quicker,cleaner or more reliable.As a said we moved to weather point.The price can seem off putting to begin with but If you factor in labour savings at install,clean up and future snagging its worth the money for me all day long.Further to that if a client requests coloured pointing the issues faced with dyed mortar batches over large areas or different days can become a problem which is simply not an issue anymore.

    The down side for me with the product is that you don't get as smooth a finish when you strike it,due to the nature of the compound being granular.Probably just a personal preference. I have had no complaints what so ever from clients on that side.

    There is an issue which I have come across,and yet to receive clarification from the manufacturer regarding staining on some of the natural stone slabs.After install slabs can sometimes appear as though they are suffering from black spot algae,which doesn't happen overnight!I am told(from manufacturer) that this will weather away over the course of a couple of months.Obviously this is far from ideal,the consolation being that the manufacturer will support the product if necessary and as such I will continue to use the product.

  • For budget jobs i am currently using larsen FJM cement based slurry. it goes off like the clappers though so test it out first. Most of belfast and dublin city centre is jointed with this stuff and it has lasted well in the 5 years or so its been down, street sweepers and all.

    Plus its only 7.50 + Vat for a 20kg bag so a darn site cheaper than resins.

    For sandstone though i'm still with the resins. I use rompox D1 and at 40 quid a go its not cheap but i am very confident it will last. I was previously stung by rompox easy and had to rake 2 jobs out and repoint only 3 years later.

  • Sika pave fix plus

    http://bit.ly/1gDB8nf

  • im still a traditionalist when it comes to pointing. I was given the tip of using a length of feather edge to get it into the joint with and then strike it off with whichever suits the finish you are trying to achieve. SO much faster than getting it in with a pointing trowel.

  • I currently pay almost £50 a tub of weatherpoint that barely covers 6m2. How does the Sika pave fix plus compare with that Kerry?

  • PRO

    Hi Brian,

    Many thanks for your reply to my post. It sounds like you've tried a few methods and maybe the weather point is the answer. I agree that the weather is the biggest problem while the pointing is going off and this is what has prompted me to use various resin bonded sands in the past but I have never been happy with the very gritty finish, cost and it hasn't always lasted as well as sand and cement. I think I will give the Marshalls weather point a try and see what happens.

    Thanks

    Brian McGuiness said:

    Hi Paul,

    Here's my tuppence worth:

    We moved to using Marshall's weather point(other manufacturers are available)around 18 months ago.Prior to that we used to 'butter' the joints as we laid the slabs,found this to be much quicker and also less likely to crack as it is part of the same mass of mortar as the bed.However the weather was always the issue for me with mortar pointing,throw up some canopies and you can do most things but depending on the run pointing was always a problem.

    Like yourself We tried different methods over the years and didn't find anything that was a better finish,quicker,cleaner or more reliable.As a said we moved to weather point.The price can seem off putting to begin with but If you factor in labour savings at install,clean up and future snagging its worth the money for me all day long.Further to that if a client requests coloured pointing the issues faced with dyed mortar batches over large areas or different days can become a problem which is simply not an issue anymore.

    The down side for me with the product is that you don't get as smooth a finish when you strike it,due to the nature of the compound being granular.Probably just a personal preference. I have had no complaints what so ever from clients on that side.

    There is an issue which I have come across,and yet to receive clarification from the manufacturer regarding staining on some of the natural stone slabs.After install slabs can sometimes appear as though they are suffering from black spot algae,which doesn't happen overnight!I am told(from manufacturer) that this will weather away over the course of a couple of months.Obviously this is far from ideal,the consolation being that the manufacturer will support the product if necessary and as such I will continue to use the product.

  • PRO

    Hi Simon,

    Thanks for your comments.
    I am nervous using slurry. Am I right that its applied as a very loose liquid which you then wash off the paving? I would try this with a large area of granite setts but I wouldn't risk staining sandstone. Sounds like you have some success with Rompox D1 but the fact that you had to repoint a job when you used Rompox easy doesn't fill me with confidence. I bet they didn't reimburse you for your time. We once had a similar situation with a product made by Bostik which lasted just over a year before it turned back to sand and washed away, Bostik refused to take any responsibility and told us we must have applied it wrong but I know we made sure everything was done to the letter. anyway thanks again.

    Simon Smith said:

    For budget jobs i am currently using larsen FJM cement based slurry. it goes off like the clappers though so test it out first. Most of belfast and dublin city centre is jointed with this stuff and it has lasted well in the 5 years or so its been down, street sweepers and all.

    Plus its only 7.50 + Vat for a 20kg bag so a darn site cheaper than resins.

    For sandstone though i'm still with the resins. I use rompox D1 and at 40 quid a go its not cheap but i am very confident it will last. I was previously stung by rompox easy and had to rake 2 jobs out and repoint only 3 years later.

  • PRO

    Hi Thermo,

    Thanks for your reply to my post.
    The feather edge idea sound good but we try and use fairly damp mortar and I wonder if this method involves putting a lot of mix on the slabs first and possibly risks staining? I think I will give it a go anyway. What mix of sand and cement do you use?

    Thanks

    Thermo said:

    im still a traditionalist when it comes to pointing. I was given the tip of using a length of feather edge to get it into the joint with and then strike it off with whichever suits the finish you are trying to achieve. SO much faster than getting it in with a pointing trowel.

  • PRO

    Hi Guys,

    Thanks for the tip, I haven't used SIKA yet as my confidence with premixed products is low but I shop at my local branch of Keyline and they have it as a stock item so I may give it a go. Have you had a chance to see any jobs that you have used it for after a few years to see how it lasts?

    Jackson's Landscape Design said:

    Sika pave fix plus

    http://bit.ly/1gDB8nf



  • Paul Moffatt said:

    Hi Thermo,

    Thanks for your reply to my post.
    The feather edge idea sound good but we try and use fairly damp mortar and I wonder if this method involves putting a lot of mix on the slabs first and possibly risks staining? I think I will give it a go anyway. What mix of sand and cement do you use?

    Thanks

    Thermo said:

    im still a traditionalist when it comes to pointing. I was given the tip of using a length of feather edge to get it into the joint with and then strike it off with whichever suits the finish you are trying to achieve. SO much faster than getting it in with a pointing trowel.

    paul,

    same as you really, I use a damp mix, but not so damp it will mark the slabs, but as damp as I can get away with. its done carefully in the same way you would with a pointing trowel but the feather edge means you get it in a lot quicker. the only thing you have to be careful with is striking it off pretty quickly as you will cover a wide area quite quickly and it can start drying out before you get back to it. we usually have a couple with the feather edge and then one of us following up striking it off. once its all done and swept of I always give it a good spray with a fine mist as well. seems to work well with good long term results.

    I think im like you in that I just don't seem to trust the newer products having seen so many fail, and knowing how much it will cost both in time, money and unhappy customers if it goes wrong!

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