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horse tail won't tolerate closely mown grass...
Robbie said:
Your ONLY option if you must get rid of it is to spray the entire lawn out and start again with re seeding. I have been dealing with this nitemare weed on a large housing estate for 3 seasons now. If you dont kill it off it will spread. Harsh reality, but that is your option. Some will tell you just keep cutting it close and it will die off.........eventually. But when it gets into the beds and paving etc your in bother also. If its a small to medium sized lawn crop it really short then spray the lawn out with just Glypho, let the grass die and mares tail grow, up to 3-4 inches and then hit with Kurtail. Leave for two weeks to make sure ALL of the mares is killed off, then do the repair works. It really is the only option to rid the garden of this pest.
Does the Glypho not work on Mares tail then? What about strimming the heads of the stems and then spraying the cut stems with glypho?
Glyphosate products will not work very well on Marestail because it cannot penetrate the waxy leaves. We sell a selective called Broadshot or Scimiter that works well on it and will not kill the grass.
Click here for more infomation or give us a call on 0800 133 7849
Ollie
www.agrigem.co.uk
Horsetail is surely one of the trickiest weeds to control – since we receive a lot of calls a year, I thought we could add to the discussion... It’s a close run-thing between blitzing everything and starting a fresh lawn again or treating as you go.
Most people we know who have used glyphosate spray do not get the same control as with Kurtail as the high silica content in horsetail tends to repel most glyphosate dilutions mixes. The Roundup label also says that it is pretty ineffective on Horsetail.
Kurtail is very effective but will kill the surrounding grass. The problem is that the rhizomes can spread metres every year (usually wet soils, high in sand/ silica) and can go as deep as 2-3m so any control is based on killing the top growth and re-treating re-growth until it no longer has enough ‘energy’ to come back up.
Getting back to the lawn issue – if the horsetail has been imported with new soil then treatment followed by re-turfing may be the best. For an established patch – a selective weedkiller: TRIBUTE has seen some success with our customers and it does have a dilution for Marestail on the label. A stem injector using neat glyphosate (not a spray as mentioned above) and a thin needle also has control – especially late in the season, but in every case be prepared for some re-growth and follow-up in the following season.
FYI: It tends to lay dormant for many years and most commonly is re-ignited by groundworks that disturb lower soil levels; extensions, driveways, etc.
We also have a section on our website that gives some background to managing Horsetail that may be of use MARESTAIL/HORSETAIL
If you need any further help we're on 0800 032 6262
www.progreen.co.uk
Any plant has reserves, and things like marestails or knotweed have more than most. But, it's as simple as, if there is zero leaf area to feed from the sun, the plant will weaken and die eventually. I've beaten a small area of knotweed with weekly hoeing of any shoots, albeit over a decade!
Any tall weed in a lawn will be kept weak with regular mowing. Flat-leaved weeds are obviously different, as are creeping, low-growing weeds, but anything that shoots straight up won't get a chance to photosynthesize if it's mowed weekly.
If it pops up outside the lawn area, then those bits can be treated locally. Personally, I can't see it even showing in a lawn, as it's always being cut short.
It does sound as if the area was rotivated prior to the lawn being laid, spreading perfect cuttings everywhere! I've seen this happen with ground elder before, but that was controlled by mowing.
horses tail is different to 'mares tail' ? !
Brian www.mibservices.co.uk said:
Oliver Wright said:
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