Open Association of Landscape Industries
Planting an Apple Tree
I am writing this up on here as the quantity and varied methods of planting an apple tree have made it become a difficult subject to allow a conclusive methodology. The following is my personal preferred method for establishing an apple tree in Cornwall, it would be great to hear what other professionals on here would criticise or what different techniques there are:
Bare Root - Available from mid October through to March, bare root stock is usually considerably better in establishing quickly. I personally think that a February planting is best. I always graft onto a mm 106 semi dwarf, which seems to do very well here for the Cornish Varieties.
A square sided hole, dug to a depth of about 400mm to 500mm is best. The turf cut out and removed to compost or to fill that nagging hole.
The bottom of the hole is watered with about 30mm of water. It is good to do this to test the drainage of the hole and to asses the soil condition.
The tree is then placed within the hole. It is important to ensure the roots are facing from a horizontal to a downward angle. If they are not, it is possible to prune the roots accordingly:
Prior to backfilling with loose soil, staking above and below the graft is essential. Position the stake against the tree in the hole, then remove the tree and drive in the stake. Lightly hammer it in, (a lightweight stake or bamboo cane is all that is required on young trees).:
Most tree ties available for sale are adequate or an old piece of bicycle innertube. The tie should allow for some movement of the tree, (tightening too much can be catastrophic), and should allow the tree to move slightly in the wind thus encouraging the roots to strengthen.
Backfill to top of the hole, then gently, push down the soil around the base. This should allow for 50mm or so more loose material back around the base of the tree, which should not be squashed in.
Personally I will always try and opt for a transparent tree spiral for protection against rabbits, if I can get hold of them. This must have an adequate gap between the lower branches and the top of the spiral. A permeable mulch mat is essential for most sites with a good, with a inane mulch applied.
The second year is the best time to remulch using a well rotted 'horse manure' compost or similar, nothing too rich. It is becoming quite a common problem to see many overfed trees.
Bare Root - Available from mid October through to March, bare root stock is usually considerably better in establishing quickly. I personally think that a February planting is best. I always graft onto a mm 106 semi dwarf, which seems to do very well here for the Cornish Varieties.
A square sided hole, dug to a depth of about 400mm to 500mm is best. The turf cut out and removed to compost or to fill that nagging hole.
The bottom of the hole is watered with about 30mm of water. It is good to do this to test the drainage of the hole and to asses the soil condition.
The tree is then placed within the hole. It is important to ensure the roots are facing from a horizontal to a downward angle. If they are not, it is possible to prune the roots accordingly:
Prior to backfilling with loose soil, staking above and below the graft is essential. Position the stake against the tree in the hole, then remove the tree and drive in the stake. Lightly hammer it in, (a lightweight stake or bamboo cane is all that is required on young trees).:
Most tree ties available for sale are adequate or an old piece of bicycle innertube. The tie should allow for some movement of the tree, (tightening too much can be catastrophic), and should allow the tree to move slightly in the wind thus encouraging the roots to strengthen.
Backfill to top of the hole, then gently, push down the soil around the base. This should allow for 50mm or so more loose material back around the base of the tree, which should not be squashed in.
Personally I will always try and opt for a transparent tree spiral for protection against rabbits, if I can get hold of them. This must have an adequate gap between the lower branches and the top of the spiral. A permeable mulch mat is essential for most sites with a good, with a inane mulch applied.
The second year is the best time to remulch using a well rotted 'horse manure' compost or similar, nothing too rich. It is becoming quite a common problem to see many overfed trees.
Add a Comment
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Comment by Alison Meek on March 9, 2011 at 15:34 -
Hello Shane. I am a garden maintenance person in Glasgow and one of my clients wants a fruit garden, which I have never done before and am therefore somewhat anxious because I want to do it well. Your above comments regarding planting apple trees (January 7, 2011) were therefore of interest to me. Can I ask, would you apply similar methods to planting plum, pear and cherry trees too, in particular if you are going to espalier them? And what is the best method of erecting a free-standing espalier?
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Comment by Cornish Apple Trees on June 8, 2009 at 20:38 -
Hi Andrew I know what you mean, but the spiral or whatever else has to be of a size to actually prevent any damage, as such I think if the tree is not of a height to match then it is too small to plant, best to pot up and leave till following year.
Also with all tree guards it is essential to maintain, take off the guard get rid of all bugs weeds etc.,. on a regular basis.
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Comment by Andrew Garner on June 6, 2009 at 10:59 -
Having planted trees using the spirals, which I prefer and also tubex there does tend to be a bit of a slow down when planting smaller trees as they flush out of the top. I am guessing that with an apple tree the protection is only half way up the tree to avoid this problem.
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Comment by Cornish Apple Trees on June 4, 2009 at 10:57
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I think you could get plenty of pythonesque sketches out of what I have seen being done; but the trees falling immediately after removing stakes is very common. The best of the worst I have ever seen are bare root fruit bushes, all of them planted upside down, (by a chelsea gold winner no less).
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Comment by Cat Fereday on June 3, 2009 at 17:48 -
Thanks Shane - I don't think we're overfeeding our's in that case. But you have just given me a mental image of a Monty Pythonesque sketch involving some poor chap removing stakes from a line of trees only to turn around and find a line of supine trees behind him!
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Comment by Cornish Apple Trees on June 3, 2009 at 15:36
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Not at all a dumb question, it is fast becoming one of my biggest concerns as I guarantee all my trees and it is quite common. The trees do not respond well to too much feed; bearing in mind the varieties which have been grown to specialise in particular environments don't like it when that environment is changed - they relish it a little bit rough. Usually it shows up clearly by poor root systems, (they don't need to develop as they have too much to hand), this can mean that when the stakes are removed the tree falls over instantly. More common is a vigorous yet short growing period, culminating in top heavy trees little or no fruit and less chance of survival during the winter months. Apple trees are tough and like it that way.
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Comment by Cat Fereday on June 2, 2009 at 23:25
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Hi - probably a dumb question, but what do you mean by overfed trees - do they not fruit well? And how do you tell if you are overfeeding?
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