Guys and Girls

Treat or re-turf? That is the question? 125square metres of lawn infested with moss. Its like a spagnum moss bog. Severe drainage problem, not over-hung by trees, sloping lawn? Shall I treat, dress and re-seed or re-lay new turf? Have got to give a quote but a bit stuck on this one? The customer wants her lawn back but I want to give best value and am not sure what to advise? I know its difficult to advise without seeing the problem but when is it better to start again or attempt to improve an already infested lawn of moss and every other broad leafed weed you can mention? I think I know the answer but would welcome some comments.

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What's going to happen to the new turf once laid? I suspect 1-2 seasons from now it will be complete moss cover again.

These lawns are always tricky to return to grass. I would expect a proper drainage system installation to be the only way of getting to the root of the problem, which then needs to be followed by either returfing (incorporating lots of free-draining material into the subsoil) or going through the motions of moss treatment.

Dan. Thanks for your reply. I think you have confirmed to me what I originally thought? When I looked at it yesterday I thought that grubbing out and complete re-installation following sufficient drainage would be the answer. Cheers!

I would agree with Dan, we get loads of enquiries like this. People just think that if you come out and re turf their lawn it will be fine, but a year later your back to square one! You need to advise the client to get a proper drainage system installed first, otherwise they are just wasting their money.

Thanks guys. Excellent and speedy advice. LJN rocks!

Hi Andrew

I agree with Dan and Chris. 

I would also make sure that any hard pan layer is shattered using a rotovator. I've replaced lawns in the past that have been waterlogged but on further exploration it's been discovered that there's an impermeable layer creating a perched waterlogged layer and underneath a perfectly free draining soil.

Cheers Phil

When I tugged at the moss it came out like it was a lambs wool! Underneath the ground was solid. I wll know advise and quote accordingly.

I was talking to someone from Worcestershire last week, and he had just had

a delivery of ten tonnes of good top soil for £100. If that is how much you can

get top soil in your area of the country, then break up the existing soil to a depth of

9" add free draining material and then build up the level of the top soil if that is possible.

 

I find that when going to price these jobs I give advice for free!!! price for the correct way and advise on the best option is which is often more expensive and low and behold I dont get the work because the client has gone for the cheapest option however I often advise on keeping the cost down and seed rather than turf as i think in the long run a well prepared seed bed and seeded lawn will give a better lawn in the long run. Drainage is the key I would always rotovate and work with what soil you have add topsoil if needed

let her know she'll be the only one with a green lawn this summer, as moss stays green when you can't water! - lol


The hard pan could have been caused by a rotovator in the first place. I suggest that if it were to be relaid that it would be slitted and then rotovated or vice versa.
Nick

Phil Voice said:

Hi Andrew

I agree with Dan and Chris. 

I would also make sure that any hard pan layer is shattered using a rotovator. I've replaced lawns in the past that have been waterlogged but on further exploration it's been discovered that there's an impermeable layer creating a perched waterlogged layer and underneath a perfectly free draining soil.

If you can get hold on one (there are small ones for Alpine tractors) Try Subsoiling / vertical tilling the lawn - Basically this is a big vertical iron bar about 4ft long which slits along the lawn breaking up any Hardpan / Plougpan and really helps drainage and aeration. Its often used on waterlogged meadow land over clay soils to avoid the same problem you have. Combine this with scarification, overseeding and good regular care and you may be able to control the moss.

have you dug a test hole to see if there is any sub base problems. if its just a compacted top layer hollow tyning and a sand top dressing will do the trick after the other treatments. a word of warning about subsoiling check and double check there are no services (pipes cables) under the lawn as in my front garden i have a gas main in the middle 3ft down and the street light cable at the edge 6in down, water feed to the house 18in down, but if there is cable TV phone it will only be 1in down (my pet hate it should be at least 12in to meet British standard)

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