I have a rather large tipper box on the back of one of my vans made out of alumimum (where is the spellchecker). Whilst it looks great when all nice and shiney new, the dulling soon starts.
It also seems to attract a lot of unwanted attention. So what I wanted to do was paint it in the usual company colours. Thinking this was a fairly normal course of action , I called round a few paint shops. Most were not interested , the rest wanted an absolute fortune. Did find one guy who seemed reasonable but on taking it round he said that it was too big to tip up to spray.
Bear in mind that I'm just after a change of colour not and American Hot Rod finnish. So I thought"Well I'll do it myself".
So the question is : has anyone sprayed or rollered their own ally van back. Was it a nightmare, did it work out just as expensive as getting a pro to do it (if you could find one) ?
Any advice on the above would be greatfully recieved, before I make any school buy errors myself. Hopefully the replies won't be full of "STOP , do not attempt this yourself , I did and it was a disaster".
Thanks to everyone in advance.
Tags:
You need to use self or acid-etch primer (you can get it at halfords) and then paint your chosen paint (either spray or roller) on top. There's some useful info here;
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/primer.htm
Many thanks for the link. This Zinc primer has come up several times and seems to be the best way to get the base down. I know that I've got to sand the whole thing first then clean off with spirites and the primer has to go on asap after that.
So it looks as if I am on the way. Next subject , main paint (roller or a shopping trolley of aerosol). I'm sure that there are andvantages and disadvantages to both. Hopefully someone will suggest the most suitable type of paint. One guy just told me to paint the whole thing with Smoothrite and not bother with any sanding down. I strikes me that that would just be too easy to be true.
Thanks again.
Andy
Rattle cans can get expensive but the finish can be better. I would get a tin of smooth hammerite, roller with that, then if the finish is a bit ripply either mix the next coat with some cellulose thinners and apply that, or get the hammerite rattle can of the same colour.
Any paint-shop pro would have a fit if they read this but the end result should be good enough for your purposes.
I can actually hear them laughing at us now. I know that they do a fantastic job that comes out like a mirror, but lets face facts here ....its the work van. I'll spend mayby two days trying to keep the van immaculate ......then shove 2 tonnes of manure in the back.
How does smoothrite react to semi rotting grass clippings ?
All we need now is for someone to respond that has smoothrited an ally back. Believe me if we can think of it , someone has done it.
Permalink Reply by Nic Johnson on March 28, 2011 at 20:43 http://www.therustshop.com/shop/
try these look at the kbs paint they sell there the uk importer google kbs rust paint and look at the videos this is much better than hammerite hammerite doesnt last and reading what ive read from people that have used this paint it lasts well ive just painted my mower deck with it
I never really thought about the durability (more worried about it peeling straight back off/looking awful). But now you have mentioned it , I have been reminded that I have to repaint a set of gates for a customer every year with the smoothrite as it really loses it lustre over the year when out in the elements.
Thanks for the link. Smoothrite out / kbs in.
Good tip . I'll almost definately go for the roller method as I've been told that by the time you've taped off all the bits you don't want sprayed , hired a sprayer, thinned the paint, appolgised to the neighbours about compressor noise and spray drift, washed everything out and returned it to the hire shop etc, you could have rollered the whole rear end and thrown the screwfix roller in the bin hours before.
Does anyone know which day this year there won't be any bugs flying about to get stuck in the paint ?
Permalink Reply by Nic Johnson on March 28, 2011 at 22:47 Good tip . I'll almost definately go for the roller method as I've been told that by the time you've taped off all the bits you don't want sprayed , hired a sprayer, thinned the paint, appolgised to the neighbours about compressor noise and spray drift, washed everything out and returned it to the hire shop etc, you could have rollered the whole rear end and thrown the screwfix roller in the bin hours before.
Does anyone know which day this year there won't be any bugs flying about to get stuck in the paint ?
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