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Replies
Take it down a level each cut it will get better and easier with time
See it as an opportunity if the customer wants the moss eradicated ie extra charge for treatment.
Most of the lawns that I cut have a high percentage of moss in them. Some are very short with the moss just covering the soil whereas there are others which are like walking on a mattress. In either case I do not recognise the problems you have described. Obviously the height setting needs to be increased/decreases according to the thickness and sometimes adjusted for different areas of the same lawn.
I had a look at the Stiga range of mowers (could not find the mower you use) and as far as I can see they are 4 wheeled mowers as opposed to a roller mower.
I have always used a roller mower and wonder if they perform better than a 4 wheeled mower on thick moss beds. Alternatively and not wishing to condemn your mower but if that is not the case then I can only imagine the problems described is actually down to the mower not having sufficient power to drive through the resistance caused by the moss.
I have done lawns that are similar sounding to your customers'.
If the moss is very thick and high density it will cause huge amounts of material to be removed from the lawn, in effect you are performing moss removal with a mower!
The problem is further compounded if the lawn in question is not level, if there are small uneven areas, small bumps etc - you will find that the mower can easily 'dig in' to the moss and leave a very unsightly 'chunk' missing.
The 'get by' solution is to just cut on the highest setting and give the lawn some CRF. On a lawn that is as problematic as this I'd actually treat it with mosskiller now. However I would use Jewel as it will turn the moss white instead of black. Mow at a more 'normal' cutting height when it has died and make sure that you've applied fert beforehand.
I'd mosskill again in Sept and scarify also in the autumn.
Any solution is this case is making the best out of a bad situation.
Andy