Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by John Cooke on October 26, 2012 at 8:12

Subject to ground conditions, I would secure the bottom layer into damp concrete using stud or road pins. Then, build up the layers using Timberlok screws (www.fastenmaster.com) into the sleeper below, after countersinking the holes.  For 'belt and braces' I would also drill into the wall using Timberlocks but they will probably need plugging into the blocks and that will take some accurate drilling. 

Picture of a free standing wall built this way, attached. for safety we also braced the front with some timber and it's not going anywhere.

Attachments:

• P8177143.JPG, 2 MB

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Simon Smith on October 26, 2012 at 18:16

Use concrete screws. 

Just pilot a 6mm holes through the timber and masonary and bang them in. Will need an impact driver or sds to put them in though

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by David Seller on October 26, 2012 at 20:09

Just done the same thing I did actually what John said but instead of timber locks into the block wall I fitted 90 degree metal angle bracket on top of every sleeper screwed into the wall and into the sleeper

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Simon Smith on October 26, 2012 at 21:18

What a faff, just bolt them to the wall with concrete screws no plugs required.

• ▶ Reply

PRO MemberPermalink Reply by dom levy on October 26, 2012 at 21:37

I used coach bolts with my impact driver, pre sunk managed to get all 12 fixed in a hour Timberlocked each end and its solid. Cheers for replys dom.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Simon Smith on October 28, 2012 at 10:05

If you are using new railway sleepers , you might as well just use 8” x 2” timber boards to clad the wall , if you are using old recycled railway sleepers, I would be inclined to cut them in half then fix them to the wall, less weight and less materials,

• ▶ Reply

PRO MemberPermalink Reply by Matt - Glebe Landscape on October 28, 2012 at 12:30

Dom, 

I would be setting the bottom sleeper firmly into the ground preferably into concrete with threaded bar then fixed with lock washers and nuts countersunk into the sleeper (preferably stainless steel to prevent corrosion)  I would then use countersunk Timberlok's to secure the layers whilst also attaching every other one to the wall using a stainless steel right angle bracket.

I am certain that my method is probably over the top for most, but I do like to over engineer things.

Also, depending on the height of the wall, have you considered using the sleepers vertically?  It gives a different finish to the usual horizontally stacked sleeper walls which are common place?  I like to use them vertically and curve them to soften edges :o)

• ▶ Reply

▶ Reply to Discussion