Open Association of Landscape Industries
Honey Fungus in Leylandi Hedge
I have a client with a 20 year old Leylandi hedge that has started to 'brown off' and die. The browning starts in various parts of the tree and eventually the whole thing is covered and dead.
The problem started with the most exposed end tree then moving along the line. There is no fungus visible, but some fact sheets say the fungus is only usually evident in autumn, and not always present.
The site is very exposed, initially the client thought the browning was a result of the hard winter. But now the problem is spreading down the hedge they are worried.
A neighbour has expressed concern and asked them to remove the hedge.
Any thoughts on how I can be certain it's Honey Fungus, before we rip the lot out?
The problem started with the most exposed end tree then moving along the line. There is no fungus visible, but some fact sheets say the fungus is only usually evident in autumn, and not always present.
The site is very exposed, initially the client thought the browning was a result of the hard winter. But now the problem is spreading down the hedge they are worried.
A neighbour has expressed concern and asked them to remove the hedge.
Any thoughts on how I can be certain it's Honey Fungus, before we rip the lot out?
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Sean Busby on -
Could well be an aphid problem Bob. There seems to be a lot of it about.
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Permalink Reply by Robert Smale on -
There's no obvious sign of an aphid problem, but I will look again.
The hedge was last clipped in October 09 and at that time the original end tree was removed as it was dead, then the same has happened to the next three trees.
The dying off started before the drought. The hedge sits on top a 'Devon bank' and until this started it was a very vigourous thing!
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PRO MemberPermalink Reply by Gary Hedges on -
I cut a leylandii last Sept and was mortified to find when I returned this year it had died back as you describe.
However all of the surrounding gardens are the same, we had -18c here for several days on the trot but more importantly it has been the driest year since 1929 (http://www.channel4.com/news/articles/uk/driest+start+to+year+since...).
I feel it is more likely to be caused by climatic conditions rather than Honey fingus.
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Permalink Reply by Andy Jarrusso on -
Good Evening
I think this might help :
http://www.gardenseeker.com/plant_pests_problems/plant-pests/leylan...
I would be 95% certain that your Leylandi has caught a bug infection.
If it is then im not sure what type of chemical warfare you can use on it, sorry, hope that helps.
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Permalink Reply by Matt on -
The old adage of a healthy plant has no enemies couldn't be truer. Before you go looking at pests and diseases its always worth looking at some of the more easily overlooked conditions. I always start at the bottom and work my way up, soil compaction being my fist stop, and since we have had a very dry period part of your problem may well be a hydrophobic soil problem, this in turn will weaken the plant and cause it to be laid bare to pests and diseases, I know others have suggested that aphids may be the cause and they may well be right, but on the whole a healthy plant, especially one as tough as the X Cupressocyparis leylandii, I would personally look on the aphid as the end result of the problem, not the sole cause.
As to treatments, there are plenty of chemicals out there but I'd be a little careful doing anything with them, especially when there are so many safer, and in my opinion, better options. One old time method which has stood the test of time is washing up liquid, mix up a weak solution, maybe 1-10 in a sprayer, let it settle and spray where you can see the aphids, but I add, if you can't see the aphids anywhere or the "waste" they tend to leave, then I'd be a little surprised if its aphids. Back to the treatment, there are some very good "Ecco" oils, they work brilliantly and are very safe to use for all concerned but as I suggested, start at the bottom and work your way up, start with what I suspect is the "root" cause, drought damage, possible compaction or hydrophobic soils. You need to get some soil wetters on the roots, anything with seaweed in is brilliant at wetting soil, it allows the Mycorrhiza to flourish, allows the plant to function naturally and defend itself against bugs and nasties.
Some pictures will be good and if you want to see if the drainage is an issue pour a bucket of water around their roots and see what it does, if it just runs away (although after this rain it may not) then you have your main problem, thats not to say other issues are NOT the problem, but as I said, healthy roots, healthy plants. If the water drains well, dig down, just a spades depth and see how wet the soil is there.... I bet I can guess your reply.
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Permalink Reply by Matt on
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Soap sprays will kill aphids, I have watched it under a microscope, but my point was not so much about the aphids, its about what is causing such a vigorously aggressive hybrid to suffer so badly from aphid attack, if the plant was healthy in the first place its better equipped to deal with problems. Treat the cause, not the effect.
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Permalink Reply by Matt on
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I agree, feeding is almost useless at this stage, but addressing what I suspect to be hydrophobic soil and possible root damage is a lot easier done, seaweed products are an often misunderstood area, people straight away think that its a feed and nothing else, its not, it does far more to encourage Mycorrhiza and root hormones than feeding ever could.
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Permalink Reply by John on
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If the tree roots are infected with Honey Fungus then the one at the end of the hedge if it is being wind blasted more than the others will have more die back on it.
Conifers growing on top of a Devon bank will always have problems during a drought. I would also take one out to be sure, - does the neighbour have a nice garden, or do the trees block his view.
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Permalink Reply by Matt on
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Given what the weather has been like recently I would be nervous about saying its water retention but as I said its hard to say anything without seeing it first hand or at the very least some pictures. Either way I am sorry to say that the prognosis isn't too good, Leyland Cypress are pretty unforgiving, thats not to say they won't recover but I seriously doubt they ever will, I have been to gardens before where the clients "tree surgeon" had come in and topped out a big Leyland hedge and told the client that the bare stumps he had left would "grow back"
Coppicing on a miraculous scale.
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Permalink Reply by Robert Smale on
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Had a good dig around the bas and root, removed bark and no sign what so ever of any Honey fungus.
Also no signs on the hedge or around of any aphid concentration or problem.
I tend to think it is a combination of old age, lack of feeding (there had been an old hedge on top this same bank before the leylandi were planted in the 70s) and the harsh winter.
What worries me is the spread from the more exposed end, but that could all fit with the above.
My suggestion to the client is to remove the dead trees, feed the remaining ones and sit back and see what happens. We can then take a really good look over the removed trees and have any testing done.
Thanks for all the comments, I will update when we take action, just waiting for client approval to get on.
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Permalink Reply by Matt on
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Hi Bob, to be honest, I think removal is the best bet, don't forget to have everything removed just in case its something else and not to suggest planting too soon, I personally would recommend leaving it in the hope we have another hard winter but I know clients like to have things done yesterday.
As I said, I suspect that it is more to do with lack of water, Leyland Cypress is a pretty tough cookie and will stand up to most winters, of course it could have been damaged by the weight of the snow cover but as I said, without pictures or your first hand being there its hard, or "easy" for others to conclude.
Bob Smale said:Had a good dig around the bas and root, removed bark and no sign what so ever of any Honey fungus.
Also no signs on the hedge or around of any aphid concentration or problem.
I tend to think it is a combination of old age, lack of feeding (there had been an old hedge on top this same bank before the leylandi were planted in the 70s) and the harsh winter.
What worries me is the spread from the more exposed end, but that could all fit with the above.
My suggestion to the client is to remove the dead trees, feed the remaining ones and sit back and see what happens. We can then take a really good look over the removed trees and have any testing done.
Thanks for all the comments, I will update when we take action, just waiting for client approval to get on.
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