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Having learnt when to walk on and off wet concrete slabs / bays with a clipper power float and polish the concrete to such a shine that you could shave yourself in the reflection, as a lad, I now aim to bring this skill into my gardens with recycled crushed green glass and mortar dyes...........My reason for posting is Does any one have a power float with dish that they care to sell on?If so please contact me : info@jacksonslandscapedesign.comThanks.

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  • Thanks Gary

    I thought I'd ask juicers frist, I'm currently bidding on this machine,

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/concrete-power-float-/160460578938?cmd=ViewIt...

    looks like an early Dynapac model, much lighter than the Clipper and easier to through around the pour.

    We'll see what happens

    Thanks for looking out for one.
  • Note from the clip that the power floater has a bull nose trowel on the arm of the machine, I also carry a 1L plastic bottle with a small hole on the the screw cap ,full of water, so i can create a little fat where required. I hang this bottle with tying wire for easy access.

    http://www.youtube-nocookie.com/watch?v=ACUvjWJd1Rk&feature=rel...
  • Hate to admit my total ignorance on these having only laid concrete, and only done a couple of jobs, with a long plank across shuttering side boards..... and the finish has ok for a garage base but not a work of art. Do these "floats" hover like a flymo above the concrete....... what gives the smooth finish..... the blades or the air. I watched a video on youtube........ why don't your feet leave footprints in the concrete?
  • Geoff

    Its all about the timing, if you walk into or onto a concrete slab once poured you will sink, no doubt about it, as I said in the post its all about the timing and weather conditions, You'll know that concrete waits for no man, its reacting and going off the minute the batching plant send out the lorries full of 6m3

    The reason you'll see no footprints is because the chap has monitored the concrete by stepping on the slab and looked to see the depth of his footprint, if the foot drops to the steel mesh, get off the slab your too early, however should the footprint be barely visible then the time is right for the pan and a little splash of water to create the fat needed to bring the slab to the required finish.

    Always leave the concrete alone when in the curing stage as concrete is like a lady the more you play the wetter it will become hence the longer you'll be working on the slab unnecessarily.

    No attacks required for my latter statement as smut is not being delivered, the water rises to the surface the more you work with any cementitious material, be it rendering, brick/block laying, slab laying, etc.

    The 4 blades are tool that bring the slab to the required finish, which are controlled by turning the blade control knob on the handle.

    Kerry
  • Geoff next time you pour a garage floor try using an edging trowel to the perimeter and brush finish to the slab.

    http://www.pentagondirect.com/p/0-r01003-cement-edging-trowel1-0-r0...

    Looks great with a stiff wide brush finish (in a straight line).

    Kerry
  • PRO
    yeah I agree its the skill of knowing when to start and also when to stop too, if the surface has dried to much and the blades are just showing in the surface you can always add a little bit of water to bring the fat back in that particular area but in doing so means working at least an hour longer if not more till that part of the floor has started to dry

    I laid a lot of concrete floors in the late 80's due to changes in health health and safety rules, spent many a 20 - 23 hour day waiting for the concrete to cure as we did a lot during the Christmas period when companies had closed and the weather was cold which makes the concrete just hang until its ready to cure
  • Like you Mick I did many "Ghosters" around the UK, loved it and now I need to bring this skill into my every day practice, with the additions of much I've learnt since then.

    "Ghosters", mean working all day pouring concrete then working all night until the start of the next shift.

    The most challenging power float project was a huge sewer vat, I had to tie the float to the starter bars to get the float to the top of the tank, two man job, one floating whilst the other pulls on the rope. or untill the slab is finished and the hessian rolled out to prevent cracking in the warmer months, water must be added to the hessian too.
  • PRO
    my only concern with what you have in mind taking into account we have both done a lot of concreting groundworks etc so I know what your idea is with the recycled crushed green glass

    in using say a 4:1 mix of sand and cement with the glass this mortar mixture will break down over a period in time with the type of weather we tend to get in the UK, or is it just me in the north west who gets wet more days in the year than not and you guys down south enjoy glorious sunshine

    I could understand the idea of crush glass and resin as this will give a harder finish but not with sand and cement, or when you say mortar dyes you are having it delivered premixed ?

    I have seen info for this method being used internally but not outside on a patio or path, once its been laid they grind the surface to expose the glass for the desired finish or use acids too
  • NEVER PANIC WITH CONCRETE, I've seen many a man crumble at the site of a concrete wagon pull up, they just go to pieces.

    Another tool required as a must when power floating under the stars is a wide rubber squeegee, if it rains dont panic just squeegee off the excess water and start again.
  • Mick

    Don'T let this concern you, any person that's been reading my blurbs for the last couple of years will know that I've been experimenting with all manners of materials for years, I have no desires to try and be flash or sporadic in my practice.

    There will be no need for the additional grinding you refer to as the P/F will produce the finish required, a dilute acid application will be brushed on and washed off to expose the glass aggregates.

    The motar wont break down as I'll be using RC 35 structural concrete and as for the crushed glass well we all know what glass is produced from.
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